Mia Goth talks about the costumes for Netflix’s “Frankenstein”

Fascinated since childhood by the work of Mary Shelley, director Guillermo del Toro finally realizes one of his most personal – and ambitious – projects: an adaptation of Frankenstein, in partnership with Netflix. The film, available on the platform, combines existential drama, impressive visuals and the gothic horror characteristic of the filmmaker. The scarlet hill (2015).

In the plot, Oscar Isaac is the scientist Victor Frankenstein, while Jacob Elordi plays the creature, Christoph Waltz plays the patron Heinrich Harlander and Mia Goth takes turns in two roles: Victor’s mother and Elizabeth Harlander, the fiancee of William, the scientist’s brother played by Felix Kammerer.

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“This film completes a mission that began when I was 7 years old, when I first watched the Frankenstein films, directed by James Whale. Boris Karloff’s eyes caused an epiphany in me: gothic horror became my religion, and he became my messiah”, said Del Toro.

Set between the Arctic and the battlefields of the Crimean War (1853-1856), the film delves into universal themes such as loneliness, guilt and the search for belonging, similar to other works by the director, such as Pan’s labyrinth (2006) et al The shape of the water (2017).

Mia Goth and Oscar Isaac in scene
Foto: Netflix

Scream queen

To play Elizabeth, Del Toro chose the English actress, granddaughter of Brazilian Maria Gladys, who has stood out for her performances in horror, such as in Sighs (2018) and in the trilogy X (2022-24). The invitation came directly from the filmmaker, and Mia remembers the moment with enthusiasm. “I couldn’t believe what was happening. It was the most surreal experience I’ve ever had. I started calling everyone I know,” she says.

The connection with her character took shape when she tried on the costume created by Kate Hawley, in January 2024. “I only really connected with the character when I wore the costume on set. From then on, everything fell into line”, she says.

“Elizabeth enters the plot after having studied in a convent. In the same way, I arrived in Toronto (where filming began) to live a completely new experience. I started to see a lot of parallels between Elizabeth and myself from what I was experiencing off set. It was challenging to finally realize this in my quietest moments, when I could be myself at my most authentic. That’s where it came from.”

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The costume designed by Kate Hawley
Foto: Netflix

Historical costumes, with a dose of fantasy

The Emmy-nominated costume designer for The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power (2022) began to build the characters’ visual identity inspired by the film’s setting and historical references from the 19th century, but without giving up the creative freedom that marks Del Toro’s cinema. “Ultimately, we were working with a fantasy, so we were able to make compromises,” she says.

“I only really connected with the character when I wore the costume on set. From then on, everything fell into place” Mia Goth

Elizabeth’s looks were designed to reflect her delicacy and fascination with nature. Inspired by entomology (the study of insects) and botany, Hawley analyzed insect anatomy and cellular structures to develop original prints on fabrics such as silk, taffeta and damask. “Guillermo wanted Elizabeth to be very light, so there is a certain iridescence and ephemerality in some of these colors, and the fabrics helped us achieve that effect. Everything is reminiscent of insects, but in keeping with the period.” The result is pieces that resemble the shine of beetles and translucent wings.

Details of the pieces used by Elizabeth
Foto: Netflix

Striking accessories, such as geometric shawls typical of the Crimean War and berets with colorful veils were also created by her. “Religious language is very present in Elizabeth, and this beret works as if it were a halo (protective part). I used colored veils for the aesthetic to move away from the traditional. Mia has an incredibly expressive face, and in one of the first costume fittings we did, we put this beret on her, with the yellow veil. It was impressive how she simply transformed into someone else,” says the costume designer.

Tiffany & Co. invited the costume designer to go behind the scenes of the brand’s archive and choose the character’s accessories. The result is reference jewelry from the brand’s 200-year history, such as The Wade necklace, with more than 40 carats of diamonds, and The Beetle choker, shaped like glass beetles and 18k gold.

Elizabeth and the creature, played by Jacob Elordi
Foto: Netflix

To meet the director’s request not to make period pieces antiquated, Hawley combined classic silhouettes with modern elements, creating a unique look for Victor Frankenstein that blends 19th century elegance with contemporary irreverence. David Bowie and Prince were inspirations. The costume designer cites dancer Rudolf Nureyev as her main reference. “I love the grandeur that surrounds him and his irreverent way of dressing. Guillermo wanted Victor to be a dandy with a punk touch”, he says.

“Guillermo wanted Victor to be a fop with a punk touch” Kate Hawley

The same contrast is seen in the creature. Initially wrapped in white bandages, displaying the body prosthetics used by the actor, the character gains a huge coat after wandering the world. “We did a lot of testing with the coat, in an attempt to preserve Jacob’s body expression and the way of moving that he developed,” adds Hawley.

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